Method of Stitching Simple Salwar

This salwar is a loose garment with plenty of gathers. It has got only 2 pattern pieces. I feel this type of salwar is good for small children.It is very easy to stitch

 Measurements
 Length
Seat
 Bottom round =ankle round + 5”

A – B = ½ of the width of the material or (½ seat + ½ bottom round + 1”)

A-C =crotch level=⅟₄ seat + 4”

A-E =full length + ½”

From the point C draw a line perpendicular to the line A-E and produce it to D such that

C-D =A-B.

Join B-D

On the line C-D mark point H such that D-H = 2”.

On line A-B Mark the point G such that D-H =B-G.

Join G-D by a curved line as shown in the figure 1.

From the point E draw perpendicular line E-F which is equal to half of the bottom round+ 1½” or ankle round + 5”

Join D-F.

Draw a line A’-G’’ parallel to and 2” away from A-G. (Shown by dotted line). This is for casing.

 Layout

Fold the cloth length wise first and then fold it width wise. There will be 4 layers

Place the draft thus prepared on fabric as shown in the figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. You will get 2 leg pieces.

Stitching

 Bottom round

Take a strip of canvas of width 1½” and length equal to bottom round.Cover it with the fabric used for the garment and stitch as shown in the figure 5.

On the right side of the salwar leg piece,  place the edge X-Y of the   cloth covered canvas piece edge on the bottom line E- F- E’ of the salwar leg piece and stitch.( Figure 6)

Turn the canvas piece to the wrong side of the salwar leg piece and stitch the other edge to the salwar leg piece( figure 7)

Canvas edging can be decorated with lines or any design of your choice.

With right sides together stitch sides of each leg with one row of stitches. Stretchthe cloth by pulling
it along the direction of the line D-F and then run one more row of stitches. (Figure 8)

Turn each side right side out and keep them side by side as shown in the figure 9 and mark ” right leg front” and “left leg  front.”

 On the top of the front crotch line turn in ¼” from G to G’ and stitch as shown in the figure 10.

Turn one leg the right way out and keep other leg wrong way out. (Figure 11).

  Slide the leg that is the right way out  into the leg that is the wrong way out so that right sides are together and side seam against side seam. Pin it so that the seams match and stitch the crotch line from back till the point G in the front (Figure 12).asshown by the black line

Turn it right way.
Now we have to stitch waist.

Near the waist line of the salwar fold in ½” and press. Once again fold in 1½” and stitch all around .This is casing to pass draw string.

Insert a cloth tape through the casing. Salwar is ready to wear