Measurements needed
Chest
shoulder
waist length
Full lrength
Hip
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
for taking measurements refer here
Body front and back
A-C = full length +1”
A-D =¼ chest -1”
A-E =waist length
Mark point R such that E-R = 7” (for seat line)
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, E, R and C
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
From R draw a perpendicular line and mark point V on that line such that R-V =¼ seat +1½”
C-H =¼ hip +2” shape I-S-H
C-J =½” shape kameez bottom J-H
Join side F-I-V-H.
Darts
Mark U on G-E such that U-E =1/12th chest +1/2".P-U =U-Q =1/6th chest
sleeves
A-B = Sleeve length
B-J =1½” or 1" for folding
Draw perpendiculars from A, B and J.
A-C = ¼ chest -1” . A-C =B-D. Join C-D
Mark L on the line A-C such that A-L =1” .
Mark E on the line D-C such that E-C = ½ of A-C
B-I = ½ sleeve round + 1”
J-K=1/2" more than B-I .
Join I-E and I-K Join E-L. G is mid- point of E-L.
H-G = 3/4 “.Draw a line E-F perpendicular to E-C such that E-F = = 2” Join E-F-L and E-H-L. As shown
Cut the draft along the line K-T-O-F-I-V-H-J-C-R-E-D-M-L-K.Separate the sheets. Keep one aside. This is the draft of the kameez back. In the other portion cut the front neck shape K-M and front scye shape T-N-F.
Cut the sleeves draft along the line A-B-J-K-I-E -H –L-A. Open the fold .Cut the front sleeve shape E-F-L-A Draft of the sleeves is ready.
Layout
Place the paper drafts on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the different parts of the kameez.
stitching
Stay stitch neck, arm scyes and top of the sleeves.
Stitch the back opening of required length as explained here.
Join the shoulders.
Stitch darts starting from one pointed end to other pointed end . Fasten the threads at both the ends.
Stitch the neck with flat facing or fitted facing
Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, keeping right sides together ,taking care to pin sleeve front to body front and shoulder line to the middle line of the sleeve .Tack them together easing wherever necessary. Machine stitch them.
Join the sides of sleeves and sides of the body, starting from the sleeve end and to the point where the slit starts.Length of the slit depends upon the taste of the wearer.Minimum length of the slit that one could have is from waist line to hem line,that is V-H. Usually two lines are stitched side by side .But they should end at point V, where the slit starts as shown in the figure Turn the slits inside and stitch. Stitch the bottom of the kameez .
